about eating Italian wherever you are
Brimming with fish, shellfish, shrimp, white beans and potatoes, this might be my favorite seafood stew. Certainly, it’s the one I make most often. It’s easy enough to make anytime, but worthy of taking center place in a traditional Italian vigilia. I have to admit that, although we almost always eat seafood on Christmas Eve,…
Years ago, when I was collecting recipes for Serves One, a friend told me about a favorite, dead-simple pasta dish: egg noodles combined with an equal quantity of sautéed cabbage. I’ve made that ever since when in the mood for a comforting meal, sometimes just for myself. It’s always struck me as being more Eastern…
On a fall visit to the mountainous Umbrian town of Norcia, I ordered the area’s famous lentil soup. I wasn’t expecting much. The soup was a thick, monochromatic beige. But the first spoonful surprised me with honest, deeply satisfying flavor. Over the coming days, I ate soup at almost every meal. Chickpea, farro, and then…
After a trip to Spain, I bought a paella pan and starting making this dish that is at once regional (in and around Valencia) and the country’s most famous dish. I tried painstakingly traditional paellas and unorthodox ones such as Ottolenghi’s vegetable-laden paella. Usually I was cooking for a group–paella has a well-deserved reputation as a…
Just about every Wednesday, you’ll find me at my local farmer’s market. I wait patiently in line with my fellow customers, six feet apart, until it’s my turn for an audience with the seafood vendor. Typically he will have sea bass, tuna, cod, bluefish and half a dozen other wonderful choices. Most of these fish…
We’re social distancing, but no reason for vegetables to do that! One of the best ways for them to mingle is the Italian garden medley called giardiniera. Your pickled vegetable choices are many: cauliflower, carrots, baby cucumbers, fennel, celery, bell peppers, beets, radishes. I love pickled vegetables, but don’t want them to be overly…
On a Zoom happy hour recently, I asked what everyone was having for dinner. Four for four, pasta. No surprise there. Everyone loves spaghetti and other dried pastas, and naturally they’re among the staples we’re stockpiling these days. Other ingredients I never like to be without: olive oil, bread, anchovies, garlic and hot red pepper….
In the Piemonte region of northern Italy where Margherita Aloi grew up, this potful of spring greens in broth, thickened by fat rice kernels and potatoes, is known as a “cleansing soup”…especially for women. I’ve never been altogether sure what “cleansing” means, but it likely has something to do with the greens, rich in digestion-enhancing…
It’s spring, Easter and Passover are approaching, and I feel the familiar urge to cook lamb. Not the roast leg of lamb with sides that I might cook for the whole family, but a lamb and vegetable stew just for me and my husband–my bunk mate of almost 48 years and now my bunker mate…