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Classic Mediterranean Salads, Free of Greens

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I knew better than to judge Greek food by what I’d eaten in Greek-American restaurants. But I guess I did because, about 10 years ago, a hiking trip in the Cycladic Islands was a revelation.

That introduction to the vibrant flavors of regional Greek cooking started with the iconic Greek salad. Juicy tomatoes, cucumbers, green pepper, onion: similar to what we call Greek  salad in the U.S. but with some crucial differences,

  1. None of the shredded lettuce  that often shows up here. In fact, no greens at all. (Perfect for a time when cyclospora and other foodborne illnesses are making news in the U.S.)
  2. Vegetables are cut in big chunks, to be addressed with knife and fork. Feta, rather than being crumbled, is presented in slices.
  3. Salads are lightly dressed with good Greek olive oil, a few pinches of salt and perhaps a little lemon juice or wine vinegar–a chance from the vinegary, overly sweet or creamy dressings served in many Greek-American places.

Almost every meal included a salad along these lines. But there were small differences. One taverna’s salad was seasoned with dried oregano, while another’s sprinkled on fresh dill or piquant capers. On the island of Naxos, a restaurant put potatoes in its salad, an addition I loved.

Greek Salad
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Greek Salad with Potato
Prep Time
20 mins
Cook Time
15 mins
Total Time
35 mins
 

I ate a variation of this salad almost every day during a hiking trip to the Cycladic Islands.

Servings: 4
Author: Toni Lydecker
Ingredients
  • 1 large potato, peeled
  • 2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
  • 1 large tomato
  • 1 medium cucumber
  • 1 small green pepper, cored and seeded
  • several red onion slices
  • 1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
  • Juice of 1 small lemon
  • sea salt
  • freshly ground black pepper
  • 1/2 cup kalamata or other Greek olives
  • 1/4 cup chopped fresh dill or several pinches dried oregano
  • 2 to 4 ounces feta in a block
Instructions

  1. Cut potato in large chunks. Place in a small saucepan, cover with water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until just tender. Drain, return to pan and sprinkle with vinegar. Cool.

  2. Cut tomato, cucumber and green pepper in large chunks. Combine in a large bowl with potato and onion slices. Add olive oil. Toss gently. Add lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste. Toss again.

  3. Pile the salad on a platter. Sprinkle olives and dill over it. Cut feta in large slices and lay on top.


Tuscany has long been familiar ground to me but I remember my long-ago surprise on first tasting panzanella, the region’s famous bread salad. Lina Romei, a Tuscan cook through and through, showed me how to soak salt-free Tuscan bread, squeeze it dry and feather into a bowl. Onions were diced fine, basil leaves torn, and the whole anointed with good oil and vinegar. No tomatoes, cucumber or capers in Lina’s panzanella because they are not traditional.

But I’m not Tuscan–more to the point, real Tuscan bread can’t be found in this country. Instead, I oven dry croutons from the best wholewheat or white loaf I can find. Unlike Lina, I do add tomatoes, cucumbers and canned tuna to my panzanella.

And absolutely no greens in authentic Tuscan panzanella or in mine.

bread salad
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Panzanella

This version of a classic Tuscan salad brings in tomatoes, cucumbers and tuna as well as the essential ingredients: bread, olive oil, vinegar and fresh basil.

Servings: 3 or 4 servings
Author: Toni Lydecker
Ingredients
  • 1/2 cup chopped red onion
  • 3 to 4 cups 1/2-inch cubes from a firm-textured whole-grain or white loaf
  • Extra virgin olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
  • 1 ripe tomato, diced small
  • 1/2 cucumber, peeled and seeded, diced small
  • Leaves from 1 sprig basil
  • Sea salt or kosher salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper optional
  • 1 (6- to 7-ounce) can good-quality tuna packed in olive oil, drained
Instructions

  1. Place onion in a small bowl and cover with water. Let stand at least 15 minutes. Drain.

  2. Scatter bread cubes in a single layer over a shallow sheet pan or toaster oven pan. Set oven or toaster oven to 300F and heat bread until dry to the touch, 20 to 30 minutes. Taste for crispness.

  3. Place bread in a medium bowl and add 1/4 cup olive oil and vinegar. Mix gently before adding onion, tomato and cucumber. Break up tuna between your fingers. Snip basil leaves into ribbons, letting them fall into the bowl. Gently mix ingredients. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

  4. Allow flavors to blend by letting panzanella stand at room temperature for an hour or, refrigerated, for several hours.

  5. To serve: Spoon salad onto plates. Pass more olive oil for diners to add if they please.

Best Pizza Crust Ever! (in My Opinion)

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Seems like time to give a shout-out to Alice Waters’ method of making pizza dough, a favorite of mine for more than 40 years.

It was published in Chez Panisse Pasta Pizza & Calzone, a slim volume co-written by Waters with Patricia Curtan and Martine Labro in 1984. The jacket of my copy is tattered and its pages splattered with food stains. But this remains a glorious book, especially the pizza section.

Soon after the book came out, Waters did a cooking demo with one of her chefs near our home in the DC area. Mainly she chatted with the audience, exuding radiance and inspiration, while the chef mixed and formed the dough. I could see that the dough was somewhat sticky, not easy to work, requiring a light touch until kneading made it more cooperative.

At home it took some time to master that light touch and resist adding more flour. But I had the recipe, which explains in leisurely fashion exactly what to do at each stage, and I had watched it being made. So, even as an inexperienced cook, I was confident of success. My reward was a crust that managed to be crisp but tender.

One subtlety is a slight sourdough flavor, thanks to an initial short rise of yeast with rye flour and water. Does the single tablespoon of milk contribute to the magic? Seems doubtful but I never leave it out.

Largely due to Waters, California pizza gained a reputation during the ’80s. (The chain called California Pizza Kitchen is a whole other thing but was founded during this time.)

Alice’s pizza crusts are topped sparingly with creative European-style toppings that seemed exotic to most Americans at the time and still appeal. The cookbook offers 37 of these. No quantities, just the idea, which is enough. None of the combinations consists of more than three main ingredients. Some examples: pancetta, mushrooms and garlic; squid and red peppers; crawfish tails and yellow tomatoes; escarole, capers and fontina.

My favorite topping from day one has been thinly sliced new potatoes, brushed with seasoned olive oil and roasted. The dough is brushed with pesto, followed by a single layer of potato slices. Once the pizza is cooked, more pesto is brushed over the pizza.

pizza with potato and pesto

The lesson of these no-recipe toppings is that you can improvise. Baby artichokes were in my market recently—a once-a-year event—so I snapped them up. I sauteed the thin slivers in olive oil and mixed them with fresh thyme leaves.  When it was time to top the pizza, I spread layers of grated gruyere, sauteed leek, the baby artichoke slices and a sprinkling of Parmigiano Reggiano.

pizza crust

Back to that crust. To approximate the effect of a commercial pizza oven, Waters suggests heating a pizza stone or individual tiles and preheating the oven to 450F to 500F. After rolling/patting/stretching the dough, she transfers it to a pizza paddle for topping before sliding onto the pizza stone.

I learned the hard way that, if the dough sticks at any point, I’ve mangled or even lost the pizza. So I substituted an easier method that ensures success. I shape and top the pizza on the back of a floured sheet pan, bake a few minutes to firm up the crust and then slide the pie onto my hot pizza stone.

Chez Panisse Pasta Pizza & Calzone is out of print but it’s worth trying to get your hands on a used copy. The contents, which include charming illustrations, commemorate a moment in American culinary history when we were learning to choose worthy ingredients, take inspiration from European cooks and master some new techniques.

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My Favorite Pizza Crust

Adapted from Alice Waters’ recipe in Chez Panisse Pasta Pizza & Calzone

Servings: 1 12-inch to 14-inch pizza or several smaller ones
Author: Toni Lydecker
Ingredients
  • ¼ cup rye flour
  • 2 teaspoons active dry yeast
  • 1¾ cups unbleached all-purpose flour plus more for kneading
  • ½ teaspoon salt
  • Extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 tablespoon milk
  • Topping of your choice
  • semolina flour optional
Instructions

  1. Make a sponge by mixing the rye flour and yeast with ¼ cup lukewarm water in a large bowl. Cover and allow to expand and turn bubbly, about 30 minutes.

  2. Add flour, salt, 2 tablespoons olive oil, milk and 1/2 cup water. Mix with a wooden spoon or spatula until the dough starts to come together, then knead on a floured board or countertop. Use quick light motions with your hands to reduce sticking. Add more flour as you knead but no more than necessary. A soft moist dough makes a light, crisp crust. Knead for about 10 minutes to develop strength and elasticity in the dough.

  3. Place dough in a bowl rubbed with olive oil, and oil the surface of the dough to prevent a crust from forming. Cover the bowl and put it in a warm place. Let the dough rise to double its size (about 2 hours), then gently punch it down. Let it rise about 40 minutes longer.
  4. To shape and bake in a home oven: If you have a pizza stone, set it on the middle rack. Set temperature to 450-500F.

  5. Cover the back of a sheet pan with all-purpose or semolina flour,* place the dough on top and gently roll or stretch it to 12 x 14 inches or other desired dimensions. After adding the topping, place the pan on a rack to cook for 8 minutes, until the crust firms. Then slide the pizza onto the stone and cook about 8 minutes longer until the crust is lightly browned and the topping is hot.

    *If you don't have a stone, use the right side of a sheet pan or pizza pan to cook the pizza.

Tasting Olive Oil at Its Freshly Pressed Peak

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In Italy’s olive-growing regions, the festivals begin in November or even earlier in places like Sicily. Everyone’s eager to   taste the olio nuovo at its freshly pressed peak, when flavors are most intense.

That party is over. But here in the U.S., new oil from the 2024-2025 harvest is just making its way into markets. It’s a quiet entry because we don’t make a big deal of it. Recently bottled olive oil just starts to show up on shelves. Or sometimes it doesn’t soon enough–even in reputable Italian specialty stores, I’ve come across olive oil that’s two or three years old.

The new oil worth making a fuss about is what Italians call olio buono from a particular region, with good credentials. A bottle I bought from Gustiamo is certified organic, produced by Spedalotto and carries a DOP designation indicating its origin in the Tondo Iblei region. This oil was pressed a few months back but it’s still delicious, with an aroma redolent of green olives and herbs.

How do I know it’s from the most recent harvest? On the bottle neck is a sticker saying Olio Nuovo 24-25. The back label repeats the harvest years (end of 2024 into beginning of 2025) and gives a best-by date of 12/2026, two years out.

Here’s another oil, from Azienda Agricola Pianogrillo, that I bought for economy’s sake in a five-liter box about six months ago.  The back sticker tells me it’s from the 2023/2024 harvest and the expiration date is August 31, 2025.

Labelling differs from one oil to the next, unfortunately, but you can often find the pertinent information there or by asking the proprietor. Try to buy from a source that knows what they’ll selling. Good olive oil is expensive, so it’s worth making sure you’re getting what you pay for.

If you still can’t tell when the oil was produced but it otherwise looks interesting, buy a small quantity to test out. I’ve never had an olive oil go rancid–perhaps because I use it steadily–but the fresh flavor notes decline.

Tasting the new oil is a simple matter. A Florentine gardener once showed me how to curl thumb around forefinger to make a snail shape, pour a small pool of oil in the crook and suck it off. Similarly, each olive oil entry in a structured tasting is sampled solo, from a glass.

In a Sicilian agriturismo where I once stayed, cubes of toasted semolina bread were routinely offered for breakfast, along with a bottle of oil, sea salt and black or red pepper in a grinder.

Bruschetta, another vehicle for new oil, is made by toasting bread slices and rubbing with garlic cloves, topping with whatever you want or nothing at all, and anointing with oil.

I’m especially enjoying my new oil on salads and on steamed or roasted vegetables.

Another lovely way to savor fresh olive oil is to barely simmer eggs in olive oil over low heat, spooning the oil over them until the whites are done but the yolks are still oozy. Served on toasted bread, or not.

Consider drizzling your freshly pressed oil over bowls of ribollita or another hearty soup. Don’t be stingy–most Italians aren’t.

One final suggestion: Tuscan-style bistecca, cooked rare, tastes even better with a drizzle of good olive oil.

I’m planning to order a bottle of Benza EVOO, a Ligurian oil whose producer says the most recent harvest resulted in superb quality. I expect it to have lighter, more delicate flavors than the Sicilian, Tuscan and Umbrian oils I usually favor. My family loves pasta with pesto, a specialty of Liguria, so I’m looking forward to making it with this oil.

Ice Cream Classics: Vanilla, Strawberry, Chocolate

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A Florentine gelato maker once told me that crema (also known as fior di latte, flower of milk) has the pure flavor ideal for judging the quality of a gelateria. In Italy vanilla gelato is considered a particular flavor that an establishment may or may not offer.

Though vanilla tops every list of favorite American ice cream flavors, it is oddly thought of as neutral, the default flavor. Neutral, it is not. Vanilla is a familiar and well-loved taste that deserves celebrating.

I bumped up the delicious vanilla hit in my homemade ice cream base by using vanilla bean powder (whole vanilla bean works too). Seasonal fruit, a similar idea. Peaches and strawberries at their peak give ice cream a more intense flavor similar to good Italian gelato.

strawberry gelato

For chocolate ice cream–also up there on American popularity charts–my ice cream base includes cocoa, bittersweet chocolate and, just for insurance, a bit of natural chocolate extract.

Gelateria della Passera

I’ve been on an ice cream making binge for a while. Not because I’m craving ice cream more than usual–how could that be?–but because it’s faster and more fun to make with the help of my new compressor-powered machine.

For years I’d used the kind of ice cream maker that requires placing the bowl in the freezer hours ahead. My ice cream always required more freezing after spinning. It worked but was less than ideal for an impatient person.

So, for my birthday, I asked for and received a mid-range compressor machine (the brand is Whynter). The thing is the size of a microwave and, with no place to go in our small kitchen, was relegated to our downstairs closet for extra kitchen stuff. My husband kindly moves it to a nearby counter when I make ice cream, and back inside afterward.

I’m sharing all this to be clear that it’s been something of a hassle to acquire and use this machine. But, ah! Once I pour my chilled mixture into the machine and turn the switch, I’m rewarded with ready-to-eat ice cream in less than an hour.

In past posts, I’ve developed recipes for lemon ricotta gelato, mango ice cream and watermelon granita. This time I want to share what I’ve learned about making the classic flavors everyone loves: vanilla, summer fruit, chocolate. The specifics are a bit different for each one but I’ve settled on a formula that I can adapt to other flavors in the future.

chocolate ice cream

For the most part, a base that’s about half cream and half whole milk is the right degree of richness for me. That’s convenient because it means I can substitute half and half for cream and milk. The quantities of dairy vary according to what else it’s combined with, varying from two cups for peach or strawberry ice cream to four cups for vanilla or chocolate.

As always with cooking, quality matters. Local ingredients, seasonal fruit, organic dairy products, real vanilla beans or powder: they all pay off.

I tinker with the amount of sugar based on other ingredients and the flavor profile I want. The strawberry/peach ice cream recipe calls for as little as 2/3 cup sugar, allowing the sweetness of the fruit to dominate.

peach gelato

For chocolate, 3/4 cup of sugar yields a bittersweet flavor profile. As for vanilla ice cream, there’s a full cup of sugar to complement the luscious vanilla-bean taste.

I think it’s worthwhile to use the custard method of making the base because it gives a smoother texture to the ice cream. But I don’t use egg yolks alone. I didn’t want to bother with figuring out something to do with the whites, so I experimented with using whole eggs and found it works fine.

Tasting the ice cream base after it’s chilled is a good idea. If it’s not quite sweet enough or needs a bit more flavor, there’s an opportunity for corrections.

What’s next? Maybe the peppermint ice cream requested by a granddaughter. Or a rematch with avocado ice cream, in search of multidimensional flavor. I’m still trying to figure out how to infuse more powerful minty-ness into mint ice cream.  Most of all, I look forward to making coffee gelato, for an affogato even more killer than vanilla.

vanilla gelato

vanilla gelato
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VANILLA BEAN ICE CREAM
Vanilla bean powder gives this ice cream an intense flavor and pleasing flecks; you can scrape vanilla pod seeds for equivalent results. Vanilla paste could also be used but may give the ice cream a slightly beige tone. Vanilla extract is fine too—use enough of it to make a difference.
Course: Dessert
Cuisine: American, Italian
Servings: 1 quart
Ingredients
  • 2 cups heavy cream
  • 2 cups whole milk
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 2 eggs
  • ½ teaspoon vanilla bean powder*
  • ¼ teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt
Instructions
  1. Freeze your container if your ice cream maker requires this step. If you have the kind with a compressor, this step is not necessary.
  2. Combine cream and milk with sugar in a heavy medium saucepan. Bring mixture to a simmer, stirring to dissolve sugar, but do not boil.

  3. Whisk eggs in a medium bowl until smooth. Slowly start adding hot cream mixture to bowl, a little at a time, whisking all the while. Once you’ve added about 1 cup, pour back into saucepan and continue cooking over low heat, stirring frequently, until thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Stir in vanilla bean powder and salt.

  4. Cool ice cream base until tepid and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.
  5. Transfer to ice cream maker container and proceed as directed for your machine.
Recipe Notes
  • Seeds scraped from half a vanilla bean, split, can be substituted. Drop the spent bean in the cream mixture to extract more flavor as it heats. If you’re using vanilla extract, 2 teaspoons will give a stronger vanilla flavor.
strawberry gelato
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STRAWBERRY OR PEACH ICE CREAM

For the best results, choose fruit that is naturally sweet and flavorful.

Servings: 1 quart
Ingredients
  • 1 pint strawberries, or 4 or 5 peaches
  • 1 cup heavy cream
  • 1 cup whole milk
  • 2/3-1 cup sugar depending on sweetness of fruit
  • ¼ teaspoon salt
  • 2 eggs at room temperature
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla optional
Instructions
  1. Freeze container if your ice cream maker requires this step. If you have the kind with a compressor, this step is not necessary.
  2. Halve or quarter strawberries. If using peaches, peel them and cut in pieces, discarding pits. Puree fruit in a blender or food processor (about 2 cups).*
  3. Combine cream, milk, sugar and salt in a heavy medium saucepan. Bring mixture to a simmer, stirring to dissolve sugar, but do not boil.

  4. Whisk eggs in a medium bowl until smooth. Slowly add some of hot cream mixture, a little at a time, whisking all the while. Once you’ve added about 1 cup, pour back into saucepan and continue cooking over low heat, stirring frequently, until thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. 

     

  5. Cool ice cream base until tepid. Stir in pureed fruit and vanilla. Cover and chill thoroughly. 

  6. Transfer chilled base to ice cream maker container and proceed as directed for your machine.

     

Recipe Notes

*If you prefer a chunkier ice cream, cut fruit in small pieces and simmer with some of the sugar until they soften and give up juices; by evaporating some of the water content, this prevents icy bits in the finished ice cream. Incorporate cooked fruit into ice cream base as described in the recipe.

chocolate ice cream
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CHOCOLATE GELATO
Why not top each serving of chocolate gelato with panna (whipped cream)? Alternatively, toasted chopped hazelnuts or almonds and a sprinkle of finishing salt are a lovely touch.
Ingredients
  • 3 ½ cups half and half
  • 3/4 cup turbinado or regular sugar
  • 2 tablespoons cocoa powder sifted
  • 2 ounces bittersweet chocolate chopped
  • ½ teaspoon natural chocolate extract optional
  • ½ teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt
  • 2 eggs at room temperature
Instructions
  1. Freeze your container if your ice cream maker requires this step. If you have the kind with a compressor, this step is not necessary.
  2. Whisk half and half with sugar, cocoa powder, chocolate and salt in a heavy medium saucepan. Bring mixture to a simmer, stirring to dissolve ingredients, but do not boil.
  3. Whisk eggs in a medium bowl. Slowly start adding hot cream mixture to the bowl, a little at a time, whisking all the while. Once you’ve added about 1 cup, pour back into saucepan and continue cooking over low heat, stirring frequently, until thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon.
  4. Cool gelato base until tepid and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.
  5. Transfer mixture to ice cream maker container and proceed as directed for your machine.

Risotto alla Milanese

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Spending a few days in Milan last winter, my husband and I immersed ourselves in art—the immense Duomo built over a period of 600 years, Leonardo’s Last Supper, masterworks at The Brera.

It happened to be Fashion Week. So we wandered through the Galleria, stopping for cocktails at Camparino and admiring elegantly dressed inhabitants of Milan and models preening for the camera.

We also indulged in Milan’s unapologetically rich and deeply flavorful cuisine. In particular, I was on a mission to nail the making of risotto alla milanese, made with rice from Lombardy’s nearby rice growing fields. This saffron-flavored risotto flows onto a plate, to be served proudly on its own as a first course.

I once witnessed culinary students preparing risotto in this fashion at a culinary school in Emilia Romagna, with the instructor judging their results, one by one. They were learning the chefy technique of cooking risotto all’onda (“in a wave”), which ends with abruptly pulling the pan handle toward the cook, forcing the brothy rice to roll back in the shape of a wave.

When we walked into Trattoria La Colonna, in the center of Milan, I could hear the chef pounding veal for the costoletta that is typically paired with risotto alla milanese. We ordered it, but first came creamy risotto alla milanese, filling our plates in a single layer, perfectly prepared all’ onda.

I had never realized before how fragrant saffron can be. Despite cost, this precious spice is added generously, and quality counts. Katia, the chef’s wife, explained that saffron from Iran is preferred, but I’m guessing that’s not available to us in the U.S. Their second choice is Greek saffron, which I’m able to buy in Boston. Crumbling the strands into water to soak is important; at La Colonna, the saffron bath begins 24 hours earlier.

I also took a cooking class featuring risotto alla milanese through Cesarine, an organization of home cooks who open their kitchens to visitors. We had a pleasant time in Marina’s urban apartment. She often makes risotto with a simple vegetable broth instead of the usual poultry or meat broth. As at La Colonna, she did not stint on saffron, resulting in a vivid yellow risotto. Her method: continual stirring over a lively flame, with broth added sparingly but often.

Back home, I tweaked my risotto method to reflect what I’d learned in Milan. I haven’t yet mastered the all’onda trick, or at least the wave isn’t visible. But now I pay more attention to the details—abundant saffron, small quantities of hot broth added frequently, attentive hovering over my saucepan with plenty of stirring. I make sure to allow the risotto to rest after its final dose of broth and finish with the mantecato step of vigorously stirring cold butter and parmesan into the risotto, rendering it creamy.

Most of all I pay attention to the final texture. Will the risotto flow onto a plate in the right way–not too runny, not too thick? If not, I know how to fix it by cooking a bit longer or adding more broth.

I’ve also done variations on my risotto alla milanese recipe, adding sautéed baby artichokes or zucchini, or peas–during the last few minutes of cooking, to preserve color.

Another idea is to add, about half way through the cooking, an ounce of dried porcini that have been soaked and chopped. Pour the soaking liquid through a fine strainer into the risotto.

Costeletta alla milanese, a veal cutlet breaded and fried in clarified butter, is the classic course that follows risotto alla milanese. Here’s a glimpse of its dramatic presentation, rib bone protruding jauntily. It’s not easy to reproduce in the U.S., where veal is not widely available and meat isn’t necessarily butchered in the same way. If I succeed, I’ll share the recipe. Otherwise, I encourage you to book a flight to Milan!

risotto alla milanese
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RISOTTO ALLA MILANESE
Prep Time
15 mins
Cook Time
30 mins
 

This luxuriously rich specialty of Milan is flavored only with onion, saffron and broth and is eaten on its own as a first course.

Course: Appetizer
Cuisine: Italian
Servings: 2 to 3 servings
Author: Toni Lydecker
Ingredients
  • 2 generous pinches saffron
  • 1 quart seasoned chicken or vegetable broth preferably homemade
  • 2 to 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1 shallot or similar-sized piece of onion chopped fine
  • 1 cup short-grained Italian rice* see note
  • 1/2 cup white wine or dry white vermouth
  • sea salt or kosher salt to taste
  • 1/2 to ¾ cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano
Instructions

  1. Crumble saffron into a small bowl with ¼ cup tepid broth or water. Heat broth to a simmer on a burner near the one you’ll use for risotto; reduce heat to keep broth just below a simmer.

  2. Heat 1 tablespoon butter and the olive oil with chopped shallot over medium heat in a medium, preferably wide-bottomed saucepan. Cook until translucent. Stir in rice and cook 2 to 3 minutes, stirring often, until kernels smell toasty.

  3. Add wine, stirring until mostly evaporated. Ladle about a half cup of broth over rice and stir.

  4. Mixture should be at a brisk simmer. As broth is absorbed, continue adding a small amount of broth and stirring as it is absorbed.

  5. These small doses of broth will not cover rice and that’s fine. With steady additions of broth, together with steady stirring, risotto will take about 20 minutes to cook. Half way through, stir in saffron dissolved in liquid.

  6. Test a few grains to make sure rice is done. When you are satisfied, add a full ladleful of broth, stir, cover and let stand for 5 minutes. (Don't worry if some broth is left over; better to have too much than too little.)

  7. Uncover saucepan. Taste risotto and add salt if needed. Vigorously stir remaining 1 to 2 tablespoons butter and cheese into risotto. It will become creamier and should be neither too dense nor too loose, just the right consistency to spread out on a plate or shallow bowl.** If too dense, add a bit more broth; if too loose, cook over low heat a minute or two longer.

  8. Ladle or pour risotto onto salad plates or shallow soup bowls.

Recipe Notes

*Many Milanese cooks prefer Carnaroli rice, while Venetian cooks are partial to Vialone Nano. Both are readily available in the U.S., and Arborio rice also works well.

**Using a classic test to determine whether the risotto is the right consistency, the cook jerks the handle toward herself to make the risotto roll back on itself in a wave (all’ onda). I have not yet succeeded in doing this correctly, but share this information in the hope you will.

MAKING STUFFED BEEF BRACIOLE (INVOLTINI)

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Wrapping meat cutlets around a filling has long been a thrifty cook’s trick, stretching a costly ingredient to feed more mouths. And I also like how the flavors of meat and filling mingle as they cook together, enhanced further by a tasty sauce.

These stuffed meat rolls, known as braciole–or braciolini, or involtini–seem to be more common to southern Italian cooking. Home cooking, that is. It’s rare to find them on restaurant menus.

All the more reason to make stuffed braciole at home! The round of beef is a good choice and the same techniques work well for pork loin.

I’m lucky to live near Savenor’s, Julia Child’s preferred shop, and the butchers there are still amazing. So I relax while they skillfully cut and pound thin slices. I’m pretty sure most supermarket butchers would agree to do the same but, if yours says no, the procedure is simple as long as you have a sharp knife.

The pistachio-raisin stuffing, reminiscent of Sicily, comes together quickly. Do be sure to use bread crumbs freshly made in a blender or food processor–panko is appropriate for breading meat but not for this filling.

Once in a baking dish and covered with sauce, let the braciole cook slowly in the oven until just tender.  Serve with roasted vegetables or with a crisp radicchio and fennel salad.

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STUFFED BEEF BRACIOLE (INVOLTINI)
Prep Time
40 mins
Cook Time
1 hr 30 mins
 
Pork loin, prepared in the same way, can be substituted for beef.
Course: Main Course
Cuisine: Italian
Servings: 6 servings
Ingredients
  • 2 pounds lean beef such as top round*
  • 2/3 cup finely chopped onion
  • Extra virgin olive oil or grapeseed oil
  • 2 cloves garlic finely chopped
  • 2 cups fresh breadcrumbs toasted until dry but not browned
  • 1/3 cup shelled pistachios**
  • 1/3 cup raisins
  • ½ cup chopped parsley or a mixture of parsley and mint
  • 1 ½ cups pecorino romano cheese
  • Sea salt or kosher salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 egg beaten
  • 1 cup red or white wine
  • 3 cups homemade or prepared marinara sauce
Instructions
  1. Butterfly beef by cutting a thin slice about 1/8 inch thick, stopping ½ inch before the bottom; cut a second piece and flatten the two connected pieces to make a cutlet about 6 inches in diameter. (Alternatively, cut single slices to make smaller braciole.) Pound gently to thin even more. Continue with the rest of the beef. You should end up with 6 cutlets weighing about 5 ounces each (or 12 if you are doing smaller rolls)
  2. Saute onion with 2 tablespoons oil in a large skillet until golden, stirring in garlic toward the end. Add breadcrumbs, stirring to moisten. Stir in pistachios, raisins, parsley, ½ cup pecorino and a few grindings of black pepper. Taste and add salt if needed. Blend in beaten egg to moisten mixture.

  3. Season beef slices on one side with salt and pepper. Place about 1/2 cup filling along center of unseasoned side, pressing to help it adhere (if making smaller rolls, use less filliing) Roll up to make a tight roll. For extra security, tie at ends and middle with cooking twine. Repeat with remaining slices.

  4. Clean skillet and cover with a film of oil. Over medium-high heat, cooking in batches as necessary, brown braciole on seamed side. Turn and brown on the other side. Transfer to a tray.
  5. Add wine to skillet and cook for a few minutes, scraping up browned bits. For a smooth sauce, strain mixture into a bowl and return to the skillet. Add marinara sauce and simmer a few minutes longer.
  6. Heat oven to 325F.
  7. Spread 1 cup of pan sauce over bottom of a baking dish just large enough to hold braciole. Line up braciole and spoon remaining sauce over them (if sauce seems too abundant, save some to pass at table). Sprinkle top with remaining 1 cup pecorino.

  8. Cover pan with aluminium foil. Cook until meat rolls are tender but not dried out, about 1½ hours, checking often and spooning sauce over meat.

Recipe Notes

*Ideally, have a butcher slice and pound the beef as described in the first step (check thickness after the first slices). Otherwise, sharpen your best carving knife and do it yourself.

**For convenience, I often use roasted, salted pistachios and season with less salt than if using unsalted pistachios.

Italy: What’s New, What’s Not

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During our month-long stay in Italy this summer, the weather was relentlessly hot and dry. It had been three years since our last visit, with the pandemic lingering like an obnoxious dinner guest who refuses to leave. So we were looking at Italy with fresh eyes.

Overall, Italy is still Italy and one of the best places on earth to be. Some impressions about things that seemed the same and others that had shifted to a new reality.

In conversations with Italians, anxiety about Ukraine, energy prices and other thorny issues came through. The value of the euro was declining, while gas prices inched up. Corriere della Sera ran articles on Prato’s Chinatown and the distribution and influence of foreign residents. At the same time, everyone was revelling in the pleasures of summer.

Spigots with continuously running spring water were more welcome than ever. Anywhere except Rome’s Trevi and Piazza Navona fountains, where the authorities threatened fines, people managed to splash some water on themselves.

Italian water spigot

I admire Italians for relying less on air conditioning that we do. More systems have been installed in hotels and restaurants, but often the rationale is to please us. When temperatures allow, Italians still open shutters in the morning, close them to the mid-day heat and take time for the pausa before emerging in the evening. The dinner hour shifts later in summer to make the most of slightly cooler temperatures and I always wonder if children have any bedtimes at all.

Washing machines, yes. Dryers, not so much. The smell and feel of laundry dried in fresh air is still appreciated.

air-dried laundry

Although credit cards, Apple Pay and the like are acceptable most places, Italy still has more of a cash economy than we do. I carry a wad of euros because it often feels more comfortable to pay that way, once you notice that’s how many Italians are paying for their lattes or groceries. Twice we had taxi drivers who turned out to be cash only.

Some American products qualify as cool. Brownies had their day and now muffins seem to be a thing in some pasticcerias. Maine lobsters are prized, and so is American craft beer.

English continues to penetrate the Italian language. Meeting, check in, fashion, pub, scooter, computer, modem are examples. Even when there are perfectly good Italian terms for the same thing, the cool factor often wins–just as in English speakers savor the pleasure of saying “Ciao!” instead of “See ya!” Still, learning some Italian makes a difference. Outside the most heavily touristed places, there’s nothing that opens cross-cultural doors faster or brings more pleasure than speaking to Italians in their language.

The table is yours for the evening and I love that. Just once did a server try to pick up a plate before we’d finished eating and it’s still considered rude to appear to hustle customers out the door by offering the check. If you’re in a hurry or having trouble flagging down the server, it’s perfectly acceptable to head for the cashier to settle the bill.

As New England residents, we feel right at home with Italy’s roundabouts/rotaries. We first noticed them about 25 years ago in Piemonte and now the network extends throughout Italy. As a result, the road system makes more sense than ours, plagued by competing jurisdictions of cities, states and national governments. Trains, same.

Ice cubes! Forty years ago, the waiters at my parents’ Florence hotel argued that the ice water they wanted, even with breakfast, was terrible for their digestive systems. Over time, with the growing popularity of spritzes and G&Ts, a few ice cubes were grudgingly slipped into glasses. Now those glasses are routinely filled to the brim with ice.

Aperitivo now refers to the pre-dinner tidbits served by bars as well as to your wine or cocktail. When the dishes are more substantial, you’re looking at apericena, a tapas-like spread that constitutes dinner.

Italy’s political turn to the right was happening. Following dinner, a friend flicked on the TV and we watched as the Italian parliament dissolved in shouts and Mario Draghi was forced to resign. Since then Giorgia Meloni, with her anti-immigrant views, has become the new prime minister and Berlusconi is back–this time as a senator.

There are more graffiti and message boards than in the past, my husband pointed out, and mostly they do not get washed off or painted out. The messages can be political, romantic, obscene, hilarious. They are found in all kinds of places, from a dingy alley to the boisterous streets of Trastevere. For the most part, they contribute to an exuberant, expressive atmosphere rather than to a scary one.

Tonnarelli cacio e pepe, spaghetti alla carbonara, bucatini all’ amatriciana are examples of regional specialties that appear with depressing regularity on menus everywhere. You can still find truly local dishes and truly creative dishes,  but you have to look harder for them. This lovely dish, savored at a Roman restaurant called Quercia, consists of stracciatella cheese and salt-cured anchovies on a chickpea crust (panissa)–simple and irresistible!

Coffee is always better than at home.  Because experienced baristas know how to make your espresso or latte fast, to be served in a real cup or glass (your choice). Here’s the next generation, enjoying a decaf cappuccino.

Italian supermarkets can be fabulous, but I’m partial to watching a vendor choosing my produce with care. And the butchers! Still worth the airfare.

produce vendor

 

Italian signage is more universal and fun than ours. The graphics focus on communicating with people who speak a variety of languages, because that’s the situation. Some signs, such as this one designating a suggested meeting place, I’ve never seen anywhere else.

Italian street fashion continues to amaze, regardless of a person’s age, gender or ethnicity. No point in describing–I’ll just show a sampling.

I’ll close with a couple of art photos. First, the she-wolf nursing Romulus and Remus, a symbol of Rome in the Capitoline Museums. It is a masterpiece but, as you can see, the crowds that now throng the Vatican and Forum are nowhere in evidence. Italy is so rich in its cultural heritage that you can stray from the guidebooks’ must-see checklists and still experience artistic wonders.

We did want to revisit the Giotto frescos in Padua’s Arena Chapel, present on any touristic checklist. Reservations were required and limited to 15 minutes of viewing (in addition to an excellent introductory video). Believe me, we treasured every moment.

Minestrone, al Modo Mio

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Italian vegetable soup

I just made a potful of soup, packed with seasonal vegetables. Italians call this minestrone, a “big soup,” compared to a less ambitious minestra featuring fewer ingredients.

Pellegrino Artusi, the so-called “father of Italian cuisine,” tells an amusing but sobering story. In 1855, he found himself in the coastal city of Livorno. Entering a trattoria, he asked what kind of soup was on offer. “Che c’e di minestra?” The answer: minestrone. After dining, Artusi suffered for several days from “a severe revolution in the body,” including diarrhea.

He fled the city, swearing never to eat minestrone again–only to learn later that cholera had struck Livorno, killing the trattoria owner, and was likely the cause of his affliction. Not the soup after all, he concluded.

But perhaps the soup was at fault, given that, as it was soon discovered, cholera spreads through contaminated food or water.

We’ll never be sure about that particular soup, but Artusi’s description of how to make minestrone lives on. Root vegetables, cut small. Beans. Some kind of greens. Rice, to thicken the soup. The most important directive: Modify the soup “a modo vostro” according to the tastes of your region and the vegetables you find.

That advice still holds today. Artusi decrees that minestrone is not for delicate stomachs, but I respectfully disagree. I consider a hearty minestrone to be the healthiest of soups.

I’ve been making minestrone for 40 years, so I don’t follow a recipe. Once I’ve gathered suitable ingredients, the soup building begins. Key steps:

Lay down a flavor base. My soffritto begins with onion in olive oil. As it progresses toward golden, I dice celery, carrots, garlic, adding each as I finish. Onion and garlic can be chopped, but other vegetables should be diced small, all the same size, so they look nice and mingle well. If you have decent knife skills, it doesn’t take that long—and is not onerous, once you get some music or a podcast going.

Some cooks add small bits of pancetta at this stage but I don’t.

Keep adding vegetables such as zucchini and potatoes. I love the rhythm of preparing each ingredient as the one I’ve just added gently sautés.

Season and cover with liquid. For me, the basics are canned tomatoes I crush or puree, the liquid from dried beans I’ve cooked, and water. Many classic minestrone recipes call for meat or chicken broth, which does add depth of flavor, but I prefer letting the soup sing its vegetal heart out. At this point, I throw in a chunk of Parmigiano Reggiano rind, if I have it, to further enrich the soup.

Simmer until the ingredients are very tender, adding greens, rice or another grain, and cooked beans during the last hour of cooking. Let the soup rest overnight, refrigerated, for the flavors to marry.

borlotti

Dish up your soup. Minestrare, the root of minestra and minestrone, refers to this joyous act. Drizzle each serving with good olive oil, set a bowl of grated cheese on the table and serve it forth.

Italian vegetable soup
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Minestrone, al Modo Mio
Prep Time
2 hrs
 

This recipe makes about four quarts of soup. Use your largest pot and plan on sharing with family and friends.

Course: Soup
Cuisine: Italian
Keyword: minestrone, minestra, soup, vegetables, beans, grains
Ingredients
  • 1 large or 2 medium onions
  • 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
  • 3 stalks celery
  • 3 carrots
  • Up to 4 cloves garlic
  • 2 medium potatoes peeled
  • 2 zucchini
  • 1 can (28-ounce) plum tomatoes with puree
  • Sea salt or kosher salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 piece Parmigiano Reggiano rind optional
  • 3 cups shredded kale cabbage or other greens
  • 3 cups cooked cranberry or cannellini beans plus their liquid if cooked from scratch
  • ¾ cup farro, Arborio rice or pastine
  • Best extra-virgin olive oil for garnishing, optional
  • Chopped parsley or other fresh herbs optional
  • Grated Parmigiano Reggiano or other hard Italian cheese
Instructions
  1. Finely chop onion and cook with olive oil over medium heat until golden brown. Meanwhile, cut celery and carrots in small dice. Add to saucepan, stir and reduce heat to low. Chop garlic and add to saucepan. Cook for a few minutes to release aromas.
  2. Cut potatoes and zucchini in small dice, adding to saucepan. Briefly puree tomatoes in a blender or squish between your fingers. Stir into vegetable mixture. Add water* to a depth of 2 inches above ingredients. Season with salt (about 1 tablespoon) and pepper. Add cheese rind, if using.
  3. Bring liquid to a simmer, reduce heat and barely simmer until vegetables are very tender, adding kale, beans and farro during last 45 minutes of cooking (add water as needed).
  4. Before serving, cut cheese rind in small pieces and return to soup. If you like, garnish each serving with a swirl of olive oil and/or chopped herbs, and pass a bowl of dgrated cheese.
Recipe Notes

*If you like, chicken broth can be substituted for part or all of the water. If the broth is seasoned, cut back on the amount of salt added.

Fettuccine with Mushrooms and Radicchio

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pasta with mushroomsSometimes you can make a familiar dish—say, pasta with a mushroom sauce–and suddenly it tastes way better. Because you’ve made a few changes, whether deliberate or random, and the stars aligned in a good way.

That happened recently when I made fettuccine with mixed mushrooms and radicchio. To my surprise, the dish rose a notch above what I’d achieved before. The alchemy of a powerful trio–mushrooms, radicchio and green garlic—tasted divine, with just enough cream to bring out the flavor in every luxurious bite.

Russo’s, a local produce market, has a crazy-big display of cultivated mushrooms. I could have chosen maitake, oyster, trumpet or, for a splurge, chanterelles. I went for great-looking cremini and yellow hedgehog mushrooms, cheaper than chanterelles but with a similar flavor.

remind mushrooms, hedgehog mushrooms, green garlicThe fettuccine I planned to use was an artisanal brand and the radicchio looked deep red and fresh, free of that wan look imported heads acquire when produce staff peel off the darkened outer leaves, week after week.

To sum up: Primo ingredients make a difference.

The second difference was accidental. I thought I had turned off the heat under the sauce while on a Zoom call when in fact I had left it going strong. When a strong mushroom-garlic aroma wafted to where I was chatting, I ran to turn down the heat. The liquid had evaporated but the sauce hadn’t burned—though maybe it had come close. Instead, that hard saute had brought out a deliciously savory, almost caramelized flavor.

One more note: A pound of mushrooms to half a pound of pasta makes a very mushroom-dominant dish. In deference to the Italian rule of thumb that pasta sauces and toppings should not overpower the pasta, I would typically go lighter on mushrooms.

Tasting this dish, however, I can say that breaking the rules now and then isn’t wrong.

pasta with mushrooms
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Fettuccine with Mixed Mushrooms and Radicchio
Prep Time
45 mins
Cook Time
35 mins
 

At least one of the mushroom varieties for this pasta dish should be a richly flavorful one such as shiitake, hedgehog or maitake. Or porcini, of course, if you are fortunate enough to have those. Be sure to follow the cooking instructions, giving the mushroom and green garlic mix a fierce saute to deepen flavors. You have a choice with the pasta quantity. For a mushroom-dense dish, go with 8 ounces; for a more traditional mushroom pasta, 12 ounces is preferable.

Servings: 4 servings
Ingredients
  • 1 pound mixed mushrooms such as cremini, oyster, shiitake, hedgehog
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil
  • ½ cup chopped green garlic or shallots or scallions
  • 2 cups shredded radicchio
  • ½ cup white wine or ¼ cup white wine and ¼ cup Marsala
  • ½ cup heavy cream
  • 8 to 12 ounces fettuccine or tagliatelle or other egg noodles
  • Sea salt or kosher salt
  • 1 cup Parmigiano Reggiano or Grana Padano
Instructions
  1. Slice mushrooms in similar-sized pieces (this may call for quartering or halving larger mushrooms).

  2. Melt butter with olive oil over medium heat in a large skillet. Add mushrooms and saute until they soften, release liquid and then re-absorb it, about 10 minutes.

  3. Stir in green garlic and raise heat to medium-high. Continue cooking until mushroom blend gives off a deeply savory, almost caramelized aroma. Stir in radicchio, cooking briefly until it wilts slightly.* Season to taste with salt and pepper.

  4. Add wine and, when it has almost evaporated, the cream. Reduce heat to low to blend flavors, about 5 minutes.
  5. While the sauce is cooking, fill a large saucepan about two-thirds full of cold water and bring to a boil. Add a small handful of salt.
  6. Add fettuccine and stir to separate strands. Cook until tender, which may be as little as 3 minutes.

  7. Strain pasta, reserving at least 1 cup of cooking water. Add pasta to skillet (or, if there is not room, combine pasta and sauce in the empty saucepan). Simmer a few minutes, stirring gently while adding half the cheese and cooking liquid as needed for a saucy consistency.

  8. Sprinkle servings with remaining cheese.

Recipe Notes

*The radicchio will darken as it cooks. If you prize that ruby-red color, reserve some to stir in near the end.

Note: An ounce of pancetta, finely diced and sauteed, would be a good addition to this sauce.

Pasta with Cabbage, Pasta with Kale

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Pasta with Cabbage and Soppressata

Years ago, when I was collecting recipes for Serves One, a friend told me about a favorite, dead-simple pasta dish: egg noodles combined with an equal quantity of sautéed cabbage. I’ve made that ever since when in the mood for a comforting meal, sometimes just for myself. It’s always struck me as being more Eastern European than Italian.

scialatelli pastaRecently I sautéed an onion with the cabbage, adding toasted fennel seeds and diced soppressata. Most important, I used a chef-invented pasta variety from Campania with more tooth–a shape called scialatielli (“ruffle,” maybe). Suddenly the dish seemed more Italian.

This is the season when cabbage abounds and if you buy one, you’re probably going to need more than one way to use it. This satisfying pasta dish is one of the best solutions. If you’re cooking for one or two, you could also use a cole slaw mix successfully.

lacinato kaleFall is also prime time for kale and other dark, nutrient-rich greens. Every fall I make ribollita with Tuscan kale and I also love to use the large, corrugated, inky leaves in a winter pesto. Browned, caramelized onions and walnuts give this pasta sauce a glorious earthiness.

penne with kale pestoGardeners know Tuscan kale as lacinato kale and, in Tuscany itself, it is called cavolo nero (“black cabbage”). Whatever name you choose, it is truly wonderful. If regular green kale is what you find at the market, it will work well too.

Pasta with Cabbage and Soppressata
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Pasta with Sauteed Cabbage and Soppressata
Prep Time
15 mins
Cook Time
25 mins
 

This recipe combines Italian heart with the Eastern European genius for cooking with cabbage.

Course: Appetizer, Main Dish
Cuisine: Italian
Ingredients
  • 4 tablespoons butter
  • 6 cups shredded green cabbage
  • 1 large red onion halved or quartered and cut crosswise in thin slices
  • 1 teaspoon fennel seed crushed and toasted
  • 2 ounces soppressata or Genoa salami cut in short strips
  • Kosher salt or sea salt
  • Freshly ground black pepper
  • 8 ounces scialatielli pasta or other short shape
  • 1 cup grated hard cheese such as Parmigiano Reggiano or Grana Padano
Instructions
  1. Melt butter in a large saute pan and tilt to distribute it. Add cabbage and onion. Cook over medium-high heat until ingredients reduce in volume and start to turn golden. Stir well and continue to cook until cabbage and onion start to caramelize, with some of the cabbage’s green still visible. Stir in soppressata and fennel seed. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
  2. Meanwhile, fill a large saucepan about two-thirds full of cold water and bring to a boil. Add 2 tablespoons salt. Add pasta, stir well and cook until al dente, about 10 minutes. Reserving 1 cup of the pasta water, drain pasta and add to the skillet (if not large enough, do the reverse, returning drained pasta to saucepan and adding cabbage mixture).
  3. Over low to medium heat, stir to mix cabbage mixture with pasta, adding some of the pasta water if needed. Stir in half of the cheese and top servings with the rest.
Print
Penne with Tuscan Kale and Walnut Pesto
Prep Time
10 mins
Cook Time
22 mins
Total Time
32 mins
 

(adapted from Piatto Unico, by Toni Lydecker)

Course: Appetizer, Main Dish
Cuisine: American, Italian
Servings: 4 to 6 servings
Ingredients
  • Kosher salt
  • 1 pound dried penne, pici noodles or fettuccine
  • Tuscan Kale and Walnut Pesto recipe follows
Instructions
  1. Fill a large saucepan about two-thirds full with cold water. Bring to a boil and add a small handful of salt. Cook the pasta until al dente (up to 22 minutes for pici; more like 10 minutes for fettuccine).
  2. Meanwhile, heat half of the pesto over low heat in a large skillet. Drain the pasta, reserving about 1 cup of the cooking liquid, and turn it into the skillet. Mix well, adding more pesto (you may not need it all) and as much cooking water as needed for a saucy consistency; cook for a minute or two to blend the flavors.
lacinato kale
Print
Tuscan Kale and Walnut Pesto
Prep Time
30 mins
Cook Time
20 mins
Total Time
50 mins
 
Course: Ingredients
Cuisine: American, Italian
Ingredients
  • 1 large onion
  • 4 cloves garlic roughly chopped
  • 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1 large bunch Tuscan kale
  • ¼ cup walnuts or pecans
  • 2 teaspoons sea salt or kosher salt
  • ¼ teaspoon freshly ground pepper
  • 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano or Grana Padano cheese
Instructions
  1. Halve the onion, end to end, and cut in thin slices. Roughly chop the garlic. Heat ¼ cup of the olive oil in a large sauté pan. Saute the onion over medium-high heat until it softens and turns golden brown, about 15 minutes; reduce the heat if there seems to be a danger of burning. Stir in half of the garlic during the last few minutes of cooking.
  2. Meanwhile, fill a large saucepan about two-thirds full with water and bring to a boil. Strip off the kale leaves, discarding the stems. Shred by cutting crosswise with a large knife (you should have about 8 packed cups). Add the kale to the boiling water and cook until wilted and tender, 3 to 5 minutes (depending on the size and freshness of the kale). Drain and cool.
  3. Combine the kale, onions and garlic, the remaining raw garlic, walnuts, salt, pepper and remaining ¾ cup olive oil in a food processor bowl.  Puree until the mixture is homogeneous but the texture is slightly chunky.
  4. Scrape the pesto into a bowl. With a spatula, fold in the cheese. Chill or freeze any of the pesto you don't use immediately.