Spending a few days in Milan last winter, my husband and I immersed ourselves in art—the immense Duomo built over a period of 600 years, Leonardo’s Last Supper, masterworks at The Brera.
It happened to be Fashion Week. So we wandered through the Galleria, stopping for cocktails at Camparino and admiring elegantly dressed inhabitants of Milan and models preening for the camera.
We also indulged in Milan’s unapologetically rich and deeply flavorful cuisine. In particular, I was on a mission to nail the making of risotto alla milanese, made with rice from Lombardy’s nearby rice growing fields. This saffron-flavored risotto flows onto a plate, to be served proudly on its own as a first course.
I once witnessed culinary students preparing risotto in this fashion at a culinary school in Emilia Romagna, with the instructor judging their results, one by one. They were learning the chefy technique of cooking risotto all’onda (“in a wave”), which ends with abruptly pulling the pan handle toward the cook, forcing the brothy rice to roll back in the shape of a wave.
When we walked into Trattoria La Colonna, in the center of Milan, I could hear the chef pounding veal for the costoletta that is typically paired with risotto alla milanese. We ordered it, but first came creamy risotto alla milanese, filling our plates in a single layer, perfectly prepared all’ onda.
I had never realized before how fragrant saffron can be. Despite cost, this precious spice is added generously, and quality counts. Katia, the chef’s wife, explained that saffron from Iran is preferred, but I’m guessing that’s not available to us in the U.S. Their second choice is Greek saffron, which I’m able to buy in Boston. Crumbling the strands into water to soak is important; at La Colonna, the saffron bath begins 24 hours earlier.
I also took a cooking class featuring risotto alla milanese through Cesarine, an organization of home cooks who open their kitchens to visitors. We had a pleasant time in Marina’s urban apartment. She often makes risotto with a simple vegetable broth instead of the usual poultry or meat broth. As at La Colonna, she did not stint on saffron, resulting in a vivid yellow risotto. Her method: continual stirring over a lively flame, with broth added sparingly but often.
Back home, I tweaked my risotto method to reflect what I’d learned in Milan. I haven’t yet mastered the all’onda trick, or at least the wave isn’t visible. But now I pay more attention to the details—abundant saffron, small quantities of hot broth added frequently, attentive hovering over my saucepan with plenty of stirring. I make sure to allow the risotto to rest after its final dose of broth and finish with the mantecato step of vigorously stirring cold butter and parmesan into the risotto, rendering it creamy.
Most of all I pay attention to the final texture. Will the risotto flow onto a plate in the right way–not too runny, not too thick? If not, I know how to fix it by cooking a bit longer or adding more broth.
I’ve also done variations on my risotto alla milanese recipe, adding sautéed baby artichokes or zucchini, or peas–during the last few minutes of cooking, to preserve color.
Another idea is to add, about half way through the cooking, an ounce of dried porcini that have been soaked and chopped. Pour the soaking liquid through a fine strainer into the risotto.
Costeletta alla milanese, a veal cutlet breaded and fried in clarified butter, is the classic course that follows risotto alla milanese. Here’s a glimpse of its dramatic presentation, rib bone protruding jauntily. It’s not easy to reproduce in the U.S., where veal is not widely available and meat isn’t necessarily butchered in the same way. If I succeed, I’ll share the recipe. Otherwise, I encourage you to book a flight to Milan!
This luxuriously rich specialty of Milan is flavored only with onion, saffron and broth and is eaten on its own as a first course.
- 2 generous pinches saffron
- 1 quart seasoned chicken or vegetable broth preferably homemade
- 2 to 3 tablespoons unsalted butter
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 1 shallot or similar-sized piece of onion chopped fine
- 1 cup short-grained Italian rice* see note
- 1/2 cup white wine or dry white vermouth
- sea salt or kosher salt to taste
- 1/2 to ¾ cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano
-
Crumble saffron into a small bowl with ¼ cup tepid broth or water. Heat broth to a simmer on a burner near the one you’ll use for risotto; reduce heat to keep broth just below a simmer.
-
Heat 1 tablespoon butter and the olive oil with chopped shallot over medium heat in a medium, preferably wide-bottomed saucepan. Cook until translucent. Stir in rice and cook 2 to 3 minutes, stirring often, until kernels smell toasty.
-
Add wine, stirring until mostly evaporated. Ladle about a half cup of broth over rice and stir.
-
Mixture should be at a brisk simmer. As broth is absorbed, continue adding a small amount of broth and stirring as it is absorbed.
-
These small doses of broth will not cover rice and that’s fine. With steady additions of broth, together with steady stirring, risotto will take about 20 minutes to cook. Half way through, stir in saffron dissolved in liquid.
-
Test a few grains to make sure rice is done. When you are satisfied, add a full ladleful of broth, stir, cover and let stand for 5 minutes. (Don't worry if some broth is left over; better to have too much than too little.)
-
Uncover saucepan. Taste risotto and add salt if needed. Vigorously stir remaining 1 to 2 tablespoons butter and cheese into risotto. It will become creamier and should be neither too dense nor too loose, just the right consistency to spread out on a plate or shallow bowl.** If too dense, add a bit more broth; if too loose, cook over low heat a minute or two longer.
-
Ladle or pour risotto onto salad plates or shallow soup bowls.
*Many Milanese cooks prefer Carnaroli rice, while Venetian cooks are partial to Vialone Nano. Both are readily available in the U.S., and Arborio rice also works well.
**Using a classic test to determine whether the risotto is the right consistency, the cook jerks the handle toward herself to make the risotto roll back on itself in a wave (all’ onda). I have not yet succeeded in doing this correctly, but share this information in the hope you will.