A Florentine gelato maker once told me that crema (also known as fior di latte, flower of milk) has the pure flavor ideal for judging the quality of a gelateria. In Italy vanilla gelato is considered a particular flavor that an establishment may or may not offer.
Though vanilla tops every list of favorite American ice cream flavors, it is oddly thought of as neutral, the default flavor. Neutral, it is not. Vanilla is a familiar and well-loved taste that deserves celebrating.
I bumped up the delicious vanilla hit in my homemade ice cream base by using vanilla bean powder (whole vanilla bean works too). Seasonal fruit, a similar idea. Peaches and strawberries at their peak give ice cream a more intense flavor similar to good Italian gelato.
For chocolate ice cream–also up there on American popularity charts–my ice cream base includes cocoa, bittersweet chocolate and, just for insurance, a bit of natural chocolate extract.
I’ve been on an ice cream making binge for a while. Not because I’m craving ice cream more than usual–how could that be?–but because it’s faster and more fun to make with the help of my new compressor-powered machine.
For years I’d used the kind of ice cream maker that requires placing the bowl in the freezer hours ahead. My ice cream always required more freezing after spinning. It worked but was less than ideal for an impatient person.
So, for my birthday, I asked for and received a mid-range compressor machine (the brand is Whynter). The thing is the size of a microwave and, with no place to go in our small kitchen, was relegated to our downstairs closet for extra kitchen stuff. My husband kindly moves it to a nearby counter when I make ice cream, and back inside afterward.
I’m sharing all this to be clear that it’s been something of a hassle to acquire and use this machine. But, ah! Once I pour my chilled mixture into the machine and turn the switch, I’m rewarded with ready-to-eat ice cream in less than an hour.
In past posts, I’ve developed recipes for lemon ricotta gelato, mango ice cream and watermelon granita. This time I want to share what I’ve learned about making the classic flavors everyone loves: vanilla, summer fruit, chocolate. The specifics are a bit different for each one but I’ve settled on a formula that I can adapt to other flavors in the future.
For the most part, a base that’s about half cream and half whole milk is the right degree of richness for me. That’s convenient because it means I can substitute half and half for cream and milk. The quantities of dairy vary according to what else it’s combined with, varying from two cups for peach or strawberry ice cream to four cups for vanilla or chocolate.
As always with cooking, quality matters. Local ingredients, seasonal fruit, organic dairy products, real vanilla beans or powder: they all pay off.
I tinker with the amount of sugar based on other ingredients and the flavor profile I want. The strawberry/peach ice cream recipe calls for as little as 2/3 cup sugar, allowing the sweetness of the fruit to dominate.
For chocolate, 3/4 cup of sugar yields a bittersweet flavor profile. As for vanilla ice cream, there’s a full cup of sugar to complement the luscious vanilla-bean taste.
I think it’s worthwhile to use the custard method of making the base because it gives a smoother texture to the ice cream. But I don’t use egg yolks alone. I didn’t want to bother with figuring out something to do with the whites, so I experimented with using whole eggs and found it works fine.
Tasting the ice cream base after it’s chilled is a good idea. If it’s not quite sweet enough or needs a bit more flavor, there’s an opportunity for corrections.
What’s next? Maybe the peppermint ice cream requested by a granddaughter. Or a rematch with avocado ice cream, in search of multidimensional flavor. I’m still trying to figure out how to infuse more powerful minty-ness into mint ice cream. Most of all, I look forward to making coffee gelato, for an affogato even more killer than vanilla.
- 2 cups heavy cream
- 2 cups whole milk
- 1 cup sugar
- 2 eggs
- ½ teaspoon vanilla bean powder*
- ¼ teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt
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Freeze your container if your ice cream maker requires this step. If you have the kind with a compressor, this step is not necessary.
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Combine cream and milk with sugar in a heavy medium saucepan. Bring mixture to a simmer, stirring to dissolve sugar, but do not boil.
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Whisk eggs in a medium bowl until smooth. Slowly start adding hot cream mixture to bowl, a little at a time, whisking all the while. Once you’ve added about 1 cup, pour back into saucepan and continue cooking over low heat, stirring frequently, until thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Stir in vanilla bean powder and salt.
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Cool ice cream base until tepid and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.
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Transfer to ice cream maker container and proceed as directed for your machine.
- Seeds scraped from half a vanilla bean, split, can be substituted. Drop the spent bean in the cream mixture to extract more flavor as it heats. If you’re using vanilla extract, 2 teaspoons will give a stronger vanilla flavor.
For the best results, choose fruit that is naturally sweet and flavorful.
- 1 pint strawberries, or 4 or 5 peaches
- 1 cup heavy cream
- 1 cup whole milk
- 2/3-1 cup sugar depending on sweetness of fruit
- ¼ teaspoon salt
- 2 eggs at room temperature
- 1 teaspoon vanilla optional
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Freeze container if your ice cream maker requires this step. If you have the kind with a compressor, this step is not necessary.
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Halve or quarter strawberries. If using peaches, peel them and cut in pieces, discarding pits. Puree fruit in a blender or food processor (about 2 cups).*
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Combine cream, milk, sugar and salt in a heavy medium saucepan. Bring mixture to a simmer, stirring to dissolve sugar, but do not boil.
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Whisk eggs in a medium bowl until smooth. Slowly add some of hot cream mixture, a little at a time, whisking all the while. Once you’ve added about 1 cup, pour back into saucepan and continue cooking over low heat, stirring frequently, until thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon.
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Cool ice cream base until tepid. Stir in pureed fruit and vanilla. Cover and chill thoroughly.
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Transfer chilled base to ice cream maker container and proceed as directed for your machine.
*If you prefer a chunkier ice cream, cut fruit in small pieces and simmer with some of the sugar until they soften and give up juices; by evaporating some of the water content, this prevents icy bits in the finished ice cream. Incorporate cooked fruit into ice cream base as described in the recipe.
- 3 ½ cups half and half
- 3/4 cup turbinado or regular sugar
- 2 tablespoons cocoa powder sifted
- 2 ounces bittersweet chocolate chopped
- ½ teaspoon natural chocolate extract optional
- ½ teaspoon sea salt or kosher salt
- 2 eggs at room temperature
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Freeze your container if your ice cream maker requires this step. If you have the kind with a compressor, this step is not necessary.
-
Whisk half and half with sugar, cocoa powder, chocolate and salt in a heavy medium saucepan. Bring mixture to a simmer, stirring to dissolve ingredients, but do not boil.
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Whisk eggs in a medium bowl. Slowly start adding hot cream mixture to the bowl, a little at a time, whisking all the while. Once you’ve added about 1 cup, pour back into saucepan and continue cooking over low heat, stirring frequently, until thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon.
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Cool gelato base until tepid and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.
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Transfer mixture to ice cream maker container and proceed as directed for your machine.